I needed a damper rod holder tool to dissasble some older XS650 fork tubes, but couldn't find one available. Luckily for me, there are a few folks that have made them and documented the process. This is how I made mine. I started with a 6 point 17mm socket. I set the socket in a vice, facing up, and made two verticle cuts (you can kind of see in photo #2 where those cuts where made). Next, I positioned the socket horizontally in the vice and made a couple more cuts (not all the way through, just enough to connect the verticle cut. I used a nice, new hack saw blade. You should too. Next step, get some vice grips and bend that cut piece off (photo #1). You will have to file the inside of the socket a bit untill you get the right fit on the damper rod. Having a mostly dissasemble fork handy should help you dial in the right fit. In the end you should have a handy little socket tool you can be proud of.
Monday, June 25, 2012
Monday, June 18, 2012
Appliance Epoxy Paint on the XS650
I kept reading about people using appliance epoxy paint on their motorcycles, so I thought I'd give it a try. This is the stuff I found at the local hardware store. Also picked up some waterproof sand paper in 600 grit and a pack of pre-paint cloth from the auto store.
The red spray bottle is just water, no secret recipee. The forks lower legs were washed then blown off with the air compressor and allowed to dry. I kept the latex gloves on the whole time to keep my oily hands off the clean metal. Once the metal was dry I put down a coat of self etching primer and let that dry, then some light wet sanding and more washing and drying. Then, finally it was time for some Appliance epoxy paint to go on.
Friday, June 15, 2012
Biltwell Keystone 7/8 black handlebars on the '83 XS650
Picked up some Biltwell bars (Keystones) in 7/8 black. They look pretty rad with the Posh Factory grips.
Tuesday, June 12, 2012
XS650 Fork Tubes and Lower Legs
I had a couple of XS650 legs lying around that I've been meaning to tear into. I'm hoping to get one good set out of these 2 sets. They were rusty and crusty in the usual places (fork seals, drain screw). The best advice I can give anyone doing this for the first time is to take a chisel to the old fork seals. Hit the fork seal all the way through with the chisel, at an angle, and then pry out the fork seal with a big flat head screw driver. For rusty fork drain screws, clean up around the screw with a brass wire brush. Then spray it with PB Blaster. Let the spray work for a little while, then lightly tap around the screw with a chisel (just enough to unstick any rustyness). At this point, clean up and dry off the screw area, then get the right size phillips head screw driver (the nicest newest one you've got) and put sufficient downward pressure to unscrew the screw.
Monday, June 11, 2012
XS650 Solid Riser Bushing Installation
This is a super easy swap out type job that only takes a few minutes. I unbolted the risers on the '83 and lifted the bars right up. You will probably have to fish out the little R-pin at the bottom of each riser before they can be unscrewed. Small needle nose pliers work perfectly for that. Once you've got the bars lifted out you should see the original rubber bushings. Pulling out the bars should have loosened them up a little bit. Twist and pull out the old rubber top bushings first, then insert a medium size screw driver down threw the bottom bushing and tap it out. Now it's time to clean up that area a little.
Solid Riser Bushings part #2
Once you pop out the old rubber bushings with a screw driver, clean up the messy area where they were. Then your ready to pop in your new aluminum bushings. These things will slide right in with a little WD-40.
Solid Riser Bushings part #3
Here is a close up of the new bushings installed. These bushings are simple, clean and reliable and I like these things a lot. Now what should I do with the rest of this front end area?
Solid Riser Bushing part #4
Here is a pick of the front end of the '83 with the riser bushings installed. Notice the turn signal lights, speedo and tachometer are gone. They came out really easily. Just a couple of bolts and disconnecting a couple of wire connectors inside of the headlight housing. I was hoping to clean this area up even more, but at this point it was time to go for a ride.
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